Planting and caring for pepper seedlings in a greenhouse

Planting and caring for pepper seedlings in a greenhouse

Read the previous part. ← Growing sweet pepper seedlings

Sweet pepper with a Ural accent. Part 2

Preparing the greenhouse for planting pepper seedlings

In a harsh climate, the cultivation of heat-loving crops (in particular, pepper) in greenhouses without biofuel little effective. In the Middle Urals, in this case, it is possible to plant pepper seedlings no earlier than June 10. At the same time, gardeners have to constantly be on alert in order to establish additional shelters at the first threat of another frost. And pepper develops badly on cold ground. As a result, in practice, its yield is symbolic.

Soil with biofuel is a different matter. Here, the threat of frost is an empty phrase (of course, in the presence of single-layer internal shelters), and the growth activity is high and the development of plants (and, therefore, ultimately, the harvest) is at a height. The options for filling greenhouse ridges with biofuel can be very different - manure mixed with straw and foliage, tops and other organic residues mixed with hay and some manure etc.

Regardless of the version of the greenhouse cake you choose, in the spring, the ridges (not yet fully formed) are covered with transparent plastic wrap to accelerate the thawing of the upper layer, and the greenhouses themselves are closed. When the soil components in the greenhouse more or less thaw out, the folded organic matter is loosened with a pitchfork and poured abundantly from a watering can with hot water with dissolved nitrogen fertilizer (for 10 liters of water, 1 tablespoon with top of urea).

With a limited amount of manure or its complete absence, it is also a good idea to spill the soil with infused bird droppings or mullein solution. After that, the organic materials stored in the fall (preferably manure), if necessary, are heated in one way or another, and then the organic matter is placed in the trenches and plentifully watered with hot water. After that, the ridges are again covered with foil for several days to start the heating process.

Then on top of the prefabricated soil is poured prepared soilmixed with mineral fertilizers and ash, with a layer of at least 10-15 cm, after which it will be possible to start sowing and planting. Of course, it will be too early to plant seedlings of heat-loving crops at this moment, and the greenhouse can be temporarily occupied for growing seedlings or various vitamin greens.

Planting pepper seedlings in a greenhouse

Planting pepper seedlings to greenhouses in a harsh climate, for example, in the Urals, they are held approximately in the second half of May. By this time, the first buds should already appear on the seedlings (but not fruits - the appearance of fruits in the seedling stage usually leads to the depletion of plants), and the greenhouse soil is fully prepared and well heated.

The technique of planting seedlings does not present any difficulties. Plants are watered abundantly, and then carefully removed from the pots and planted in prepared holes, without deepening. You should not deepen the pepper, since no side roots are formed in it. In addition, in the case of deepening, rotting in the area of ​​the root collar is possible. After planting, the plants are well watered.

When planting, I do not add anything to the holes, but on insufficiently fertile soils, this, of course, is necessary, since this culture requires very fertile light soils with a neutral reaction medium containing organic matter in the form of humus. On insufficiently fertile soils, a large crop of pepper cannot be obtained. A possible option for additional fertilization in the holes can be semi-rotten compost mixed with a complex mineral water (Kemira, etc.).

The pepper planting scheme recommended by agronomists depends on the size of the bushes in the selected hybrid. For example, tall hybrids are placed according to the scheme: between rows - 70 cm, between plants - 40-45 cm (about 4-5 plants per 1 m2). Seedlings of low-growing hybrids are planted denser - according to the scheme 70x30-35 cm (6 plants per 1 m2).

By the way, from my experience I know that pepper can be grown and with a denser planting, but provided that the light conditions required for the pepper are provided (there can be no question of any shading - when shading, the plants stretch out, they have yellowing of the leaves, dropping of buds and ovaries, etc.). If you want to harvest a larger crop per unit area, then you can safely plant plants and a little denser. It all depends on the circumstances: the design of the greenhouse, the level of soil fertility and your readiness for additional labor costs. The fact is that you will have to steadily monitor the degree of efficiency of redistribution of the available light space between plants and regularly make your own adjustments by further deflecting the plant and tying individual shoots to supports.

At one time, for example, in this way I deflected too densely planted plants towards the glass (there the light space with the usual garter option often disappears), as well as towards the greenhouse path (however, here all the household members began to express dissatisfaction), and received noticeably more high yield of pepper. So some generally accepted recommendations and rules can be broken to a certain extent.

In our Ural climatic conditions at the time of planting seedlings, daytime and nighttime temperatures are still too low, and we have frosts until June 17-18. Therefore, you need to immediately build additional shelters inside the greenhouse in the form of arcs covered with thick covering material. On warm sunny days, the covering material is temporarily thrown back from the arcs, and carefully returned to its place at night. Indoor shelters can usually only be removed after 20 June. In other regions, where the climate is also harsh, gardeners should be guided by the time when the return frost stops.

And yet, vegetable growers should remember that bell peppers can be pollinated not only with their own pollen, but also with the pollen of bitter peppers, and as a result, then the fruits of sweet peppers can be bitter. Therefore, in the same greenhouse, sweet and bitter peppers are not planted at the same time.

Seven points of further care

If you forget about the harsh climate, then pepper in general is a grateful enough culture and not particularly laborious. True, it is necessary to act taking into account his individual characteristics. There are seven requirements that he makes to anyone who wants to get a good harvest of his fruits.

The first - all modern highly productive pepper hybrids belong to the intensive type hybrids, that is, they can give large yields, subject to the application of increased doses of fertilizers. This means that you need to ensure a regular supply of fertilizers to the plants. For this purpose, ordinary gardeners can follow the time-tested path, weekly carrying out root dressings with complete fertilizers and foliar fertilizers by them, but in smaller doses. There is also an easier way - to use long-lasting complex fertilizers (for example, "APION"), which provide a continuous supply of nutrients, which allows you to use every day of a short growing season with maximum efficiency and significantly reduces labor costs.

Second - the root system of the pepper does not tolerate the lack of air, and, as a rule, there is not enough air due to the compaction of the soil. It can be observed both due to irrigation and due to insufficiently breathable soil. As a result, the development of plants is delayed, and the yield decreases markedly. Therefore, the soil must always allow sufficient air to flow to the roots. How can this be ensured? It is very simple: on the one hand, initially to form a sufficiently structured soil by introducing loosening additives (sawdust, hay, chopped bark, etc.), and on the other, do not forget about mulching (foliage, leaf litter, straw or humus with a layer of 3-5 cm). As for loosening the soil, this operation is undesirable due to the superficial location of most of the roots.

Third - Peppers are extremely sensitive to lack of moisture. In the case of a lack of moisture in the plants, the ovaries fall off (and the bushes themselves will be lower, and the size of the leaves and fruits is smaller). True, excessive waterlogging is also dangerous, as it leads to a lack of oxygen in the soil and provokes the development of diseases. Therefore, it is necessary to water the plants in a timely manner (only under the root, not by sprinkling), but not to overflow, and only with very warm water (33 ... 35 ° C).

Fourth - thermophilic pepper in our conditions can have big problems with pollination. Therefore, it is better not to wait for the ovaries to fall, but to regularly spray the plants with fruit formation stimulants (Bud, etc.) - these preparations will provide almost complete pollination in any weather conditions.

Read the next part. Growing sweet peppers in a greenhouse →

Svetlana Shlyakhtina, Yekaterinburg
Photo by the author

Landing rules

Peppers, like any other vegetable crop, can be planted with seeds or seedlings. Planting a plant in a greenhouse is the method that is most often chosen in Russia. This is not surprising, because the weather not in all regions allows you to get a quick harvest if you immediately plant seeds in open ground.

To get a healthy and rich harvest of peppers, there are some rules to follow:

  • when growing seedlings with subsequent picking, for sowing you need to choose a container made of wood or plastic. When diving, plant the sprouts in separate cups with a volume of 100-200 ml. you can plant seed immediately in individual containers of 500 ml
  • in order for the sprouts to receive the necessary nutrients, you need to choose the right soil mixture in which they will grow. It should be loose, light with neutral acidity. You can buy ready-made soil or prepare it yourself - you will need peat, river sand and earth from the garden plot
  • the necessary conditions for obtaining a larger number of seedlings are selection and proper preparation of seed material. Large seeds with an intact shell should be chosen. In addition, the age of the seed is also important - the larger it is, the less seedlings it will turn out.
  • seed treatment - they need to be wrapped in gauze and moistened in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Thus, you can disinfect them and minimize the risk of developing pests.
  • germination - place the seed in water for 20 minutes, then transfer to a damp gauze or cotton pad. Can be covered with plastic wrap to create a greenhouse effect. Place for 48-72 hours in a place where the temperature is 25 ℃, do not open
  • plant the sprouted seed in prepared holes 1 cm deep.If it is decided to plant peppers for seedlings in 2020 in a group way, then there should be a distance of 2 cm between the seedlings
  • after the procedure, you need to sprinkle everything with earth and moisten through a spray bottle, cover with a film
  • before the first shoots, place the container in a dark and warm place.

The first seedlings will appear in 1.5 weeks.

Climate and popular varieties

The Moscow region is quite suitable for growing pepper in the open field and in a polycarbonate greenhouse. It has humid summers, suitable air temperature and sufficient daylight hours.

Growing pepper in the open field in the Moscow region poses the task of choosing seeds for gardeners. You need to carefully approach the selection of the variety:

  1. Gingerbread man.
    The name speaks for itself. Refers to early varieties. The fruits have a rounded flattened shape and burgundy color. Fleshy, with walls up to 2 cm thick, have a pleasant taste and aroma. It is immune to many diseases. The yield from 1 m 2 is 8 kg. 5 bushes are planted per 1 m 2. The height of the bush is 50-60 cm.
  2. Montero.
    Early ripe, the weight of the fruit reaches 350 g, has the shape of a prism, the color is dark red, saturated. It tastes very juicy and sweet. The variety is resistant to many diseases and unfavorable conditions. The plant is quite tall (up to 120 cm) and branched. 4 bushes are placed on 1 m 2. The average yield is from 7 to 13 kg cm 2.
  3. Topolin.
    Refers to mid-season peppers. A bush on a trunk, unbranched, reaches a height of no more than 70 cm, but requires a garter. The fruits are bright red in color with a pronounced pleasant taste and aroma, with a wall thickness of up to 5 mm. The weight of one pepper is up to 150 g. One bush can have up to 15 fruits. The harvest does not give immediately, the fruiting is prolonged. It is characterized by good immunity and high yield.
  4. One.
    The hybrid is considered to be early maturing. The height of the bush is up to 70 cm, does not differ in branching. Garter needed. Fruits of red color, similar to a cube, wall thickness 8 mm. Reach 200 g in weight. The pulp is juicy and has a sweetish taste. It tolerates fluctuations in temperature and humidity well, has natural protection against diseases. The yield reaches 5 kg in unfavorable weather.
  5. Aries.
    An early ripe hybrid reaches a height of 1.5 m. Fruits are dark red in color with walls up to 6 mm thick. Weight 1 to 300 g. They are distinguished by excellent taste, good immunity to fungal diseases and viral infections. With m 2, you can take 15 kg of pepper.
  6. Mercury.
    It is characterized as an early ripe hybrid with a plant height of up to 1.5 m. The bush is compact, with little branching. Fruits in the form of a cone, red, wall thickness 7 mm. They weigh 200-250 g. Not susceptible to the tobacco mosaic virus. With m 2, you can collect 12.5 kg of pepper.
  7. Gogoshary.
    The variety has proven itself well in many respects. Has another name Ratunda. Bush on a trunk, up to 50 cm, spreading. The fruits are round, slightly flattened, and have a good taste. Sufficiently sweet, with spicy-sweet partitions. The wall thickness reaches 8 mm. Weight 130 g. Excellent immunity to diseases and pests.
  8. Dobrynya. It is characterized by an average ripening period. The plant is neat, compact, densely leafy. Fruit weight 110 g, dark red color, walls up to 5 mm thick. It has a pleasant taste. The yield is up to 14 kg per m2. Fusarium resistant.

Not all the best varieties of pepper for the Moscow region are named in the list. There are many more. The more common and proven ones in this strip are listed here. These varieties of pepper are suitable in the Moscow region and for greenhouses.

Planting pepper for seedlings in 2020: sowing seeds, growing and care

In the article we will tell you when it is better to plant (sow) pepper for seedlings in 2020 according to the lunar calendar (favorable and unfavorable days), how to choose pepper seeds for seedlings, how to prepare seeds for planting and how to properly sow pepper for seedlings at home and transplant to the greenhouse.

In order not to lose the article - add it to your bookmarks and share with your friends using the buttons of social networks. I also recommend that you familiarize yourself with the recommendations for when to plant eggplants, potatoes, strawberries, tomatoes, onions, cabbage, cucumbers according to the lunar calendar, as well as the general lunar sowing calendar for 2020 for gardeners and gardeners.

Sweet bell peppers are delicious, both fresh and as part of all kinds of preparations, dishes using minced meat and rice. This is one of the favorite vegetables that many would like to grow on their site. But in order to achieve a high-quality harvest, it is necessary to find out how the planting of peppers for seedlings according to the lunar calendar in 2020 is carried out. This will help to get seedlings on time, and after a while, wonderful peppers, in which there are so many useful components and vitamins.

Marina Sergeevna (Omsk region)

- I always plant several varieties so that there are early, mid-ripening and late-ripening ones.When I was choosing seeds, the seller advised me the Russian Bull Heart variety, she said that they had not received such tomatoes before. I planted them for seedlings in early March, then planted them in a greenhouse in early June, I was afraid before. The seedlings overgrown a little, as it seemed to me, and I planted them at an angle, put a handful of humus and compost in the holes. The first tomatoes ripened in mid-July. I liked the taste of the fruit - not sour, with fleshy pulp. At the end of the season, I collected green tomatoes and put them to ripening, then ate them for a long time. Yes, just in case, like all other tomatoes, I treated late blight with copper sulfate.

Stepan (Krasnoyarsk)

The Russian Bull Heart variety is new to me. I liked the tasty and fleshy fruits, a good harvest, and the care was no different from other varieties. I will plant more - my wife, and I too, liked the preparations from this variety of tomatoes.

Planting seedlings in the ground - what everyone should know about

Adding an article to a new collection

Seedlings planted in a permanent place do not take root well and are sick for a long time? Sometimes this happens due to improper planting of plants in the ground.

How to avoid mistakes when transplanting seedlings to a permanent place? To do this, you need to know several important rules.

General rules for planting seedlings

Transplanting is always stressful for plants. Therefore, our task is to do everything possible so that young seedlings of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, cabbage and cucumbers endure this process painlessly.

Planting technique for a permanent place depends on:

  • containers in which seedlings were grown
  • age and size of plants
  • the name of the culture.

Seedlings that grew in peat pots or tablets, the easiest way to land. Plants directly in containers are lowered into pre-dug holes. Then they are sprinkled with soil, squeezed from all sides with your hands so that there are no voids left, and watered abundantly.

If the plants were grown in cardboard or paper cupsdo differently. The cups are cut lengthwise with scissors and the plants are carefully removed from them, constantly holding them by the stem and trying not to disturb the earthen lump. Then each seedling is lowered into the hole, sprinkled with soil, compacted and watered well.

If the weather is cloudy, it is recommended to plant seedlings in the morning, and if it is sunny - in the late afternoon.

Plants from plastic containers They are removed as follows: with one hand, the glass is held by the middle, and with the other, by its edge, and this is done in such a way that the stem of the plant is located between the middle and index fingers. Then the container is turned over. With the hand that is closer to its center, remove the glass, and with the other hand, gently turn the seedling over and, together with a lump of earth, lower it into the hole.

To make the process of planting in the ground painless, the seedlings are stopped to water a few days before the scheduled planting date. And 1-1.5 hours before disembarkation, it is spilled with water so that the earthen lump becomes not just wet, but wet. Then it will not decay during transplantation, and the plants will hardly suffer.

Get seedlings from cassettes more difficult. This will require a small spatula, spatula, or something similar. The blade of the spatula (spatula) is carefully inserted into the gap between the wall of the container and the earthen lump, trying to raise it a little. The same is done on the other sides. After everything is ready, the plant is taken by the stem and carefully removed from the container. The further disembarkation process is the same as in the methods described above.

Of common box seedlings are removed using a planting scoop. Before digging up the plants, they cut the soil into squares, in the center of which the seedlings are located. Then the scoop is buried in the soil next to the seedling, tilted, digging in and removing the plant with a clod of earth. The dug out seedlings are in several pieces in a box, shallow bucket, basin or other similar container. Then they are planted in a greenhouse, greenhouse or garden bed.

Seedlings grown in a box will take root better if they are transferred to the planting site one at a time and directly in the planting scoop. Plants are placed in the hole together with a scoop. Then the roots of the seedlings are sprinkled with earth on three sides, and then the scoop is carefully removed, the earth is poured, compacted with your hands (especially around the stem) and watered abundantly with water.

Culture Terms of disembarkation in the greenhouse (in the middle lane) Dates of landing in open ground (in the middle lane) Planting pattern (distance between plants × distance between rows), cm
Tomato Second half of May Early to mid-June 35-45×55-75
Pepper The end of May Early to mid-June 30-40×60-70
Eggplant The end of May Early to mid-June 30-40×50-60
Cucumber Second half of May The beginning of June 15-20×60-90
Cabbage Early May (early), early June (medium), mid-May (late) 40-50×50-70

Soil preparation

It is best to prepare a bed for planting seedlings of any crops in the fall. To do this, immediately after harvesting, it is dug onto the bayonet of a shovel. Clods are not broken - this will allow the soil to freeze better in winter, due to which a significant part of the larvae of pests and pathogens will die.

In the spring, the soil is disinfected with a hot (70-80 ° C) solution of copper sulfate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), spending 1-1.5 liters of the product per 1 square meter. After that, organic fertilizers (3-4 kg of manure, peat or humus per square meter), superphosphate (1 tablespoon per 1 square meter), potassium sulfate (1 tablespoon per 1 square meter) are evenly scattered over the soil surface. m) and wood ash (1 glass per 1 square meter). Then the soil is dug up and leveled with a rake.

As a rule, it takes about a month from the moment of spring tillage to planting seedlings. So that all this time the beds are not empty and not overgrown with weeds, they can be sown with early ripening plants: lettuce, spinach, radishes, watercress, dill, salad mustard, etc. These crops are harvested no later than 10 days before planting seedlings.

The greenhouse and the greenhouse also need to be disinfected (if this was not done in the fall) with a solution of copper sulfate (2 tablespoons diluted in 10 liters of water) with the addition of Aliot or Fufanon-Nova preparations, according to the instructions. To treat a greenhouse with an area of ​​10 square meters, you will need 10 liters of disinfectant.

How to plant tomatoes?

If the seedlings have standard sizes (height 25-35 cm and 8-10 true leaves), they are planted in the usual way. Dig a hole slightly larger than the earthen lump of the plant. A seedling is vertically installed in it and covered with fertile soil, peat or compost until the cotyledons or the first pair of true leaves (if the cotyledons were removed during the process of growing seedlings).

Overgrown tomato seedlings are planted using one of the methods described below.

The first way. They dig a hole 8-10 cm deep and 20-30 cm long. The seedling is placed at an angle of 45 degrees so that its roots are directed to the south and the trunk to the north. When planting, make sure that the trunk of the seedling does not touch the soil, and the lower leaves are located at a height of 15-20 cm from it. To achieve this, the lowest leaves are removed. It is only advisable to do this in advance, so that the wounds have time to dry out and no infection gets into them.

Thanks to this method of planting, overgrown tomato seedlings will have additional roots. This will increase the area of ​​plant nutrition and increase the yield by 1.5-2 times compared to the traditional planting method.

Second way consists in the fact that first they dig a large hole 15-20 cm deep, and in it they dig another, but already smaller and 8-12 cm deep (to the height of the container in which the seedlings were grown). You should have a kind of hole in the hole with a total depth of 25-32 cm.

A seedling with a clod of earth is planted vertically in a smaller hole. Then it is covered with soil until the cotyledons or the first true leaves. After 2 weeks, when the tomato seedlings take root and get a little stronger, a large hole is covered with soil almost to the brim (the lower leaves, which may be underground, are previously removed).

This method of planting tomato seedlings is more laborious. But on the other hand, plants subsequently form more flower brushes (especially in tall tomatoes) than with traditional planting in shallow holes.

Immediately after planting, pegs with a height of 50 cm are placed next to the plants for low-growing varieties and 80 cm for medium-sized ones. Tall varieties of tomatoes are tied to longer stakes or to wires stretched under the roof of the greenhouse.

How to plant peppers and eggplants?

Pepper and eggplant are quite thermophilic crops that do not tolerate a drop in temperature. Therefore, they are planted in open ground or a greenhouse only after the ground at a depth of 10 cm warms up to 15 ° C and above.

The planting holes are dug slightly larger than the size of the containers in which the seedlings were grown. If the soil on the site is not very fertile, a handful of humus or compost is added to each hole, 1/4 tsp. superphosphate and 1 tbsp. ash. Then it is spilled with warm water.

Pepper and eggplant seedlings are planted strictly vertically to the same depth at which they grew in containers. Pegs with a height of at least 60 cm are installed near each plant. The soil around the seedlings is compacted and mulched with humus or peat.

Seedlings of pepper and eggplant will undergo transplanting much easier if the wells are spilled with hot water before planting.

How to plant cabbage?

The technology of planting cabbage seedlings is different from planting other seedlings. In order for the plants to take root in the garden, it is important to strictly adhere to the instructions:

  1. take a bush of cabbage seedlings in one hand
  2. make a hole with the other hand, for which immerse it in the previously dug soil, pick up the earth in your palm and do not pour it out
  3. place the cabbage seedling in the hole
  4. scatter the earth that you held in your palm around the young plant and press it lightly, but do this very carefully so as not to break off the delicate roots.

Seedlings of cabbage are buried to true leaves, making sure not to fill up the growing point, otherwise the plants may die. When a whole bed is planted, a narrow strip of ammonium nitrate (25 g per running meter of the bed) or urea (20 g per running meter) is poured between the rows in the center. Such feeding will help young cabbage plants to start growing faster after transplanting. Then the bed is well watered, and when the water is absorbed, mulch with dry soil.

If the weather is dry and hot, it is recommended to cover cabbage seedlings with paper caps for the first few days. The same must be done if the temperature outside is abruptly colder.

How to plant cucumbers?

5-6 days before planting seedlings in the ground, the soil on the bed is dug to a depth of 15-20 cm and spilled with a hot solution of bird droppings with mullein (0.5 l of liquid mullein, 1 tbsp of bird droppings and 1 hour are diluted in 10 liters of hot water) .l. copper sulfate). Immediately after this, the bed is covered with plastic wrap to keep warm and high humidity, and left in this form until the cucumber seedlings are planted.

So that the cucumbers are better illuminated by the sun and do not suffer from fungal diseases, it is recommended to plant them in a checkerboard pattern.

The holes are dug the same size as the containers in which the seedlings were grown. Pour 2 tsp into each of them. any complex fertilizer mixed with the soil. Then the holes are watered with warm water and the cucumber seedlings are planted.

The plants are carefully removed from the containers (and if they were grown in peat cups, they are planted directly in them), placed vertically in the holes and covered with soil, slightly compacting it near the roots. Seedlings of cucumbers are planted at the same depth at which they grew before.

After 5-7 days, white tubercles will appear on the stems of the planted plants at the very surface of the soil. They should be covered with soil to stimulate the formation of additional roots. After a few days, white tubercles will again appear on the stems above the soil, they need to be sprinkled again. After two such procedures, the cucumber seedlings will be buried in the soil almost to the cotyledon leaves. At this, the addition of earth should be stopped.

If, when planting, the seedlings of cucumbers are immediately buried to the cotyledon leaves, its roots will be deep in the ground and begin to die off due to lack of oxygen. Such plants will not begin to develop until a new root system has grown in the topsoil.

When planting overgrown cucumber seedlings, the stem up to the cotyledonous leaves can be sprinkled with peat, sawdust or a mixture of peat and sawdust (1: 1). But in no case do not sprinkle it with earth - this will lead to the development of root rot. Remember, the cotyledon leaves must remain above the soil level.

Treat the planting of seedlings with all responsibility and carefully observe all the necessary conditions. And so that you do not miss the first, most important feeding of the seedlings planted in a permanent place, we have prepared a convenient table with the terms and names of feeding for each crop. Download and use!

Planting pepper

The best precursors for peppers: onions, cucumbers, pumpkin, cabbage after green manure, courgette and carrots. Poor predecessors: potatoes, peppers, tomatoes, physalis and eggplant.

Light soils are best for growing. It is better to prepare the soil for pepper in advance - a year in advance, adding 5 kg of organic fertilizers per square meter under the predecessor, and in the fall, 50 g of potash and phosphorus fertilizers for deep digging. In the spring, on the site - in the upper layer of the soil, we add 40 g of ammonium nitrate. Five days before replanting pepper seedlings to a permanent place, disinfect the soil, this must be done with the help of a solution - add a tablespoon of copper sulfate to a bucket of water.

Seedlings are planted in open ground at the end of May - mid-June, according to the 40x40 cm scheme. Pepper seedlings are planted in an unheated film greenhouse in early April, and in tunnel shelters at the end of May.

Planting pepper seedlings

Try to place seedlings in the holes at the same depth at which the plants grew in the seedling box, without exposing the roots and without dropping its root collar. Pepper does not like cold soil, and if you want to get a serious harvest, arrange high beds for it, which must be raised by 25-55 centimeters.

Remember, pepper is highly susceptible to over-pollination, so if you plant several varieties of it on your site, try to place them as far apart as possible and, if possible, separate them among themselves by planting tall tomatoes, corn and sunflowers.

Growing pepper by planting seeds in open ground is impractical even in the southern regions. Sowing will have to be late anyway, when the soil warms up, the plant will develop more slowly, the first fruits will ripen later, and the fruiting period of the pepper will be much shorter.

Care of pinned plants

Grassy peppers require regular fertilization and watering.


Pinching is stress for seedlings, stopping their development for a certain period of time. For plants to recover faster, the soil must contain a sufficient amount of moisture.

Top dressing of the soil

After pinching, the pepper is watered abundantly. Potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) is added to the water, making a weak solution. It disinfects the soil and gets rid of insect pests that live in the soil.

Foliar dressing

On the second day after pinching, the planting is fertilized with complex formulations in a foliar manner. This makes it easier for the plants to adapt.

Top dressing accelerates the growth of new shoots

Watch the video: The Basics of Greenhouse Gardening